Chalupas Poblanas

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Photo Credit: Rebecca Smith Hurd.

Chalupas, an iconic street food of Puebla, are so popular that you will find them served at the top restaurants. They have a resemblance to tostadas and are the perfect antojito for any Cinco de Mayo celebration. To put it simply, chalupas are fried thick tortillas topped with salsa, shredded meat, chopped onion and sometimes queso fresco.

There are two versions on the culinary origins of chalupas. The first is that it gets its name from baskets.

According to “All About Puebla”,Ch alupas date back to the Colonial era, when Spanish settlers spent a good part of their days washing clothes by the Almoloya (San Francisco) River. It’s said that the women carried everything to the river in big baskets made of wood called chalupas, after which they’d rush home and quickly fry up corn tortillas in lard, top them with salsa, shredded beef or pork, and chopped onion – and call it dinner.

The second is that they are named after the Aztec boats (chalupas) used in the ancient city of Tenochtitlan.

Named for the canoe-like boats that the Aztecs used to navigate the canals of their ancient capitol Tenochtitlan, now Mexico City, chalupas are one of the most popular snacks in Central Mexico. They are a specialty of the city of Puebla, where they are served everywhere from street stands to elegant restaurants. They are smaller than those found in other regions, and the silver dollar size chalupas sold in the San Francisco plaza are famous throughout the country.

Chalupas are an excellent way to use leftover roast meat or chicken, but can also be served with no meat at all. Although many people prefer to cook without lard, chalupas just do not taste the same without it. Corn oil may be substituted, but don’t expect the authentic, succulent flavor of chalupas fried in manteca.

Makes 24, Serves 6

Ingredients:
1/2 cup manteca (pork lard) or corn oil
24 3 inch-diameter tortillas
3/4-1 cup salsa verde
3/4-1 cup salsa roja
1 1/2 cups cooked, shredded beef, pork or chicken
1 1/2 cups queso fresco or mild feta cheese
1 medium white onion, peeled and finely chopped

Directions:
In a large, deep frying pan, heat the oil or lard until a few drops of water sprinkled into the pan bounce and sizzle.

Place tortillas, as many as will fit, into the pan and soft-fry them, just 3-4 seconds on each side. They should remain pliable and not crispy. Drain them well on paper towels as they are removed from the pan.

Spoon salsa verde, about 1 tablespoon per chalupa, over half of them, and salsa roja over the other half. Top each with a bit of shredded meat, crumbled cheese and onion.

Serve Immediately.

Captain Marryat’s Mint Julep

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The Mint Julep is an iconic Southern cocktail mostly associated with the Kentucky Derby and bourbon. The drink seems to have originated in Maryland or Virginia, where it was made with either brandy, rum or rye.

However, the name of the drink is derived from the Arabic word “julab”, meaning rosewater. It was believed that the julep may have originated in Persia and traveled to Europe, most likely to Southern France, during the Crusades where the rose petals were substituted from indigenously grown mint. The drink is then believed to crossed with Atlantic with Western European colonists where the cognac was replaced with peach brandy and later by whisky.

The first known written reference to a cocktail-style julep appeared in 1787, a publication called The American Museum described the julep as a sugared rum drink that Virginians would quaff on rising in the morning. In 1803, John Davis, an English traveler, described a julep as “a dram of spiritous liquor that has mint in it.” This description closely resembles the cocktail many enjoy today.

Another Englishman, Captain Frederick Marryat (1792 –1848), was a former British Royal Navy officer, novelist, and an acquaintance of Charles Dickens. He is noted today as an early pioneer of the sea story, particularly for his semi-autobiographical novel Mr. Midshipman Easy (1836), for his children’s novel The Children of the New Forest (1847), and for a widely used system

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Captain Frederick Marryat
(1792 –1848)

of maritime flag signaling, known as Marryat’s Code. During his travels through out the United States in the 1830s, Captain Marryat took a liking to mint juleps and he perfected the art of making them. His recipe called for equal parts peach brandy and unflavored brandy. And by way of introduction from Captain Marryat, the United States version of the mint julep crossed over to Great Britain in 1837. While visiting friends in the United States, Captain Marryat wrote in his journals complaining of being awaken at 7 am in the morning by a house slave greeting him with a Julep.

Marryat popularized the drink through his description of the American Fourth of July celebrations and praise the drink in the following manner:

“I must descant a little upon the mint julep, as it is, with the thermometer at 100 o, one of the most delightful and insinuation potation that was ever invented, and may be drunk with equal satisfaction when the thermometer is as low as 70 °……as the ice melts you drink. I once overheard two ladies from the room next to me, and one of them said, “Well, if I have a weakness for any one thing, it is for a ‘mint julep!’— a very amiable weakness, and proving her good sense and taste. They are, in fact, like the American ladies, irresistible.”

The earliest written accounts of what appears to be a recipe was published in Captain Marryat’s 1840 book, Second Series of A Diary in America in which he describes the “real mint julep”:

There are many varieties [of Mint Julep], such as those composed of Claret, Madiera, & c.; but the ingredients of the real mint-julep are as follows. I learnt how to make them, and succeeded pretty well. Put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint, upon them put a spoonful of white sugar, and equal proportions of peach and common brandy, so as to fill it up one-third, or perhaps a little less. Then take rasped or pounded ice, and fill up the tumbler. Epicures rub the lips of the tumbler with a piece of fresh pine-apple, and the tumbler itself is very often incrusted outside with stalactites of ice. As the ice melts, you drink.”

In Jerry Thomas’ 1862 book, “The Bartenders Guide: How to Mix Drinks”, the recipe calls for cognac, a dash of Jamaican rum and a garnish of berries and orange slices. He also list two julep variations of the cocktail: one made with gin and the other which calls for ripe pineapple and whisky.

Makes 1 Drink
Ingredients:
A quarter slice of fresh pineapple
12 fresh mint leaves
2 ½ fl oz cognac
1 ounce peach brandy
¾ fl oz simple syrup (2 parts sugar 1 part water)

Directions:
Rim the edge of a chilled julep cup or high ball glass with the pineapple and discard. Add the mint to a cocktail shaker and muddle the leaves to release the oil. Add the remaining ingredients and the crushed ice and shake vigorously for at least a minute. Fine strain into a julep cup or a high ball glass half filled with crushed ice. Stir the drink with the crushed ice using a bar spoon. Top the cup or glass with more crush ice and stir again. Repeat this process until the drink fill the cup and glass. Garnish with a sprig of mint and serve immediately.

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Bartender’s Note:
In these modern times, the Mint Julep is best made with fresh spearmint leaves and pre-chilled shaker and glass. The traditional julep cup is made of silver or pewter to help it to retain its coldness. Very important when late spring and early temperature reach 80 degrees.

It is also important to note that one should discard the stem of the mint, as this will produce a bitter residue when muddled, and ensure that you are only bruising the mint leaves and not pummeling them to a bitter slush at the bottom of the cup or glass.

To serve as traditional Kentucky Mint Julep, chill the julep cup or the glass for several hours in the refrigerator. Remove the cup and add a heaping mound of crushed ice to the cup. In making the drink, substitute the cognac with Woodford Kentucky Bourbon. Remove the cup from the refrigerator and add a heaping mound of crushed ice to the cup. Pour the drink of the ice and garnish with a sprig of fresh mint, lightly dusted with confectionary sugar.

Chiles en nogada

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Contrary to popular belief, Cinco de Mayo is not Mexico’s Independence Day; it celebrates the Mexican victory at the Battle of Puebla during the Franco-Mexican War, which came after Mexico’s independence from Spain, the Mexican-American War and the Mexican Civil War. In our neighbor to the south, the holiday is mainly celebrated in the region of Puebla, and mostly in the state’s capital city of the same name.

Cinco de Mayo, as celebrated in the United States, shares some similarities to St. Patrick’s Day: a mainstream marketing gimmick that evolved out of an authentic celebration of cultural heritage. The typical Cinco de Mayo is a day of eating tacos and drinking margaritas. But, just like you won’t find corned beef and green beer in Ireland on St. Patrick’s Day, you won’t find ground beef tacos, nachos and frozen margaritas in Mexico on Cinco de Mayo.

Before Spanish explorers and immigrants swarmed Mexico, Puebla was already a culinary capital. The sacred town of Cholula known for its great pre-Colombian pyramid was also home to pre-Columbian street food. In this ancient city, vendors would set up outside the pyramid to feed those who came to worship.

After arriving in Puebla, the Spanish settled close to Cholula and created what is known today as the city of Puebla. Religion was a major aspect of Spanish conquest and convents and monasteries were set up across the city. Spanish nuns invented many of Puebla and Mexico’s most cherished dishes in these convents by integrating old world traditions with new world ingredients.

An authentic dish that can be served is Chiles en nogada, an iconic dish of Mexico. It is said to have been invented in the convent of Santa Monica for Agustin de Iturbide‘s visit to Puebla in 1821. Agustín de Iturbide was Mexico’s first emperor after Mexico won independence from Spain. He was served chiles en nogada in Puebla while traveling back to Mexico City from Veracruz after signing the Treaty of Cordoba, which gave Mexico its independence.

The dish signifies Mexico’s independence and is made up of the colors of the Mexican flag; red, white and green. The flavors are just as colorful as the ingredients. The sweet, savory, picadillo stuffed poblano pepper dipped in egg batter, fried, and topped with a rich walnut sauce, pomegranate seeds and parsley is something you will not regret. Though it is more traditionally made for Mexico’s Independence Day,, rather than Cinco de Mayo,  it is one of Puebla’s most cherished dishes.

In making this dish, it is  highly recommend  to roast the pork the night before you want to make the dish. You might also want to chop all the fruit so the picadillo is quick and easy to assemble. Also note that the walnuts should be soaked in milk overnight.

Makes 12 chiles

Ingredients
12 poblano chiles

For the Picadillo:
2 pounds boneless pork butt
1 tablespoon lard
2 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon all-spice
2 small white onions chopped
3 tomatoes
1 green apple
1 ripe yellow plantain
2 firm yellow peaches
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup Jerez Sherry Fino
zest of one lemon
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar

 

For the Nogada Sauce:
1 cup milk
1 cup walnuts
1/2 cup queso fresco
2 tablespoons Jerez Sherry Fino

 

For the Capeado (optional):
10 eggs, separated
1/4 cup flour

Pomegranate nibs, for garnish

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

 

Directions:

For Chiles and Picadillo: Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place 1 tablespoon lard in a oven-proof skillet, and heat on medium-high until rippling. Add the cinnamon, cloves and all-spice, toasting for 1 minute. Add the pork roast and sear on all sides until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Add 2 cups water and one white onion chopped and simmer for 5 minutes. Put into the preheated oven for 1 hour. Remove from oven and let rest for 30 minutes. Cut pork into a quarter-inch dice. Set aside.

Meanwhile, chop all the apple, peaches and plantain into a quarter-inch dice. Soak the golden raisins in the sherry. Set aside.

 

Roast the poblano chiles on an open flame or under the broiler until blistered and blackened — 3 minutes per side if over a flame, 5 minutes per side if under a broiler. Tightly wrap the chiles in a clean dry towel and let them “sweat” for 15 minutes. When chiles are cool enough to handle, gently remove blistered skin. Cut a slit in the side of the chile and carefully remove seeds.

 

Roast the tomatoes on a cast-iron comal or under the broiler until blishered and blackened and so flesh yields to touch. Peel off the skin, core and puree in a blender. Set aside.

 

In a large skillet, on medium-high heat melt butter. Add the chopped pork. Cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Then add the remaining onion. Cook until the onions are translucent, about 3 more minutes. Add the chopped apple, peaches, plantains, lemon zest and raisins and continue to cook for 5 minutes. Finally add the tomato puree, salt to taste and simmer on low for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste and adjust seasonings.

 

Photo credit: Apartment Therapy

 

Stuff each chile with about 1/4 cup picadillo filling, so the chiles are full but not bursting at the seams.

To make the Sauce: Soak the walnuts in the milk overnight. Place the walnuts, milk, sherry, queso fresco, salt and sugar in a blender and process until a smooth, slightly thick sauce forms. If you prefer a thin sauce add more milk.

(Optional) Capear/Lamprear: Let eggs come to room temperature. Meanwhile, lightly coat each stuffed chile with flour. Separate yolks and whites. In a clean bowl or blender beat egg whites until very fluffy. Gently fold the yolk into the whites. Heat a pan with 1/4 cup vegetable oil or lard until rippling. Dip each floured chile in to the batter and place in hot oil, cook on each side until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Drain on paper towels. (See: How to Lamprear video by Zarela.)

 

Garnish and Serve: Place the chiles on a platter and pour the nogada suace over them. Sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and parsley for garnish.